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8 September 2026

A weekend in Northern Sardinia

Travel
Culture
Hotels
Travel
Culture
Hotels

There is much more to this corner of the island than the glamour of the Costa Smeralda. Venture beyond the beach clubs to discover Sardinia’s wild side with boulder-covered hillsides, the remains of Bronze Age settlements and castaway islands.

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written by Fiona Kerr

FRIDAY

7am Sunrise Yoga at Aethos Sardinia

Start the day saluting the sun with a complimentary dynamic flow session in the lush gardens of Aethos Sardinia. Classes take place Monday and Friday; there is a sound bath on Wednesdays.
Aethos Sardinia

10am Marvel at the ancient Nuraghe La Prisgiona

Sardinia is dotted with thousands of archaeological sites, from mysterious stone cone towers called nuraghi to Roman ruins. Nuraghe La Prisgiona near Arzachena is one of the best-preserved settlements, with a central nuraghe tower surrounded by some 100 circular huts, dating from more than 3,000 years ago.Nuraghe La Prisgiona

1pm Lunch in Tempio Pausania

After tucking into zuppa Gallurese (a local bread and cheese casserole) at one of the traditional trattoria in this ‘city of stone’, swing by Il Gelato di Silvia for a creamy scoop of ice cream or pick up some braided acciuleddi sweets from a pasticceria.

3pm A museum tour around the mountains

A canopy of colourful sails by Renzo Piano, dedicated to Italian singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André, shades Piazza Faber in Tempio Pausania. Learn more about his life and connection to the city in Spazio Faber. On the slopes of Mount Limbara, Organica Museum of Environmental Art has installations along forested trails, while the nearby village of Aggius is home to the compact Banditry Museum and Sardinia’s largest ethnographic museum, which recreates traditional crafts and skills .

8pm Dinner at ZAÏA

Back at Aethos Sardinia, seafront restaurant ZAÏA spotlights local dishes shaped by the land and water, from roast suckling pig to amberjack crudo. Leave room for classic Sardinian desserts fig tartlet – served with walnut ice cream and pear and ginger marmalade – or seadas, deep-fried pastries filled with pecorino cheese and drizzled with honey.
ZAÏA Restaurant

9am Hike through the surreal boulders of the Valle della Luna

The Capo Testa headland just outside the port town of Santa Teresa di Gallura is covered in giant wind-whipped and sea-sculpted rock formations. There, the aptly-named Valle della Luna (Moon Valley) has trails through the granite to hidden coves, and at its tip a lighthouse looks out towards Corsica. The hotel can arrange guided hikes through Gallura’s otherworldly landscapes.

1pm Stop for seafood in Santa Teresa di Gallura

The sea’s bounty is on the menu in Santa Teresa di Gallura with its colourful houses. Casual spot Friggitoria Stella Marina is run by a family of local fishermen and dishes up plates of linguine with clams and bottarga, while local blue lobster is one of the specialities at smarter Ristorante Da Thomas.

3.30pm Wine tasting at Capichera Winery

Vines have been grown on Sardinia for thousands of years and the island’s varied terroir and salty Tyrrhenian breezes produce distinctive wine varieties, including crisp white Vermentino and silky red Cannonau. Try both at a guided tasting on the terrace at the Capichera Winery – where ancient nuraghe and a Giant’s Tomb sit alongside the vineyards.
Wine Tasting Experience

5pm Aperitivo on the piazza in San Pantaleo

Wander the narrow alleys between galleries and artists’ studios in this pretty village, before stopping for a drink at Caffè Nina on the tree-lined main square.

7pm Grill & Groove BBQ night at ZAÏA  

The coals are fired up every Saturday night on the panoramic terrace at ZAÏA Sardinia, cooking up a feast of just-caught seafood, local meats and fresh grilled vegetables. It’s served with a side of live music under the stars overlooking the twinkling Cannigione bay.
ZAÏA Restaurant

10am Island hop around La Maddalena

The sleepy fishing village of Cannigione is one of the main jumping-off points for boat trips across to the turquoise lagoons of the Maddalena archipelago, or drive around to Palau to catch the public ferry. Sardinia’s first national park is made up of more than 60 islands and islets, with plenty of deserted beaches accessible only by boat where you can swim or snorkel.

5pm Listening Sessions at Aethos Sardinia

Round out the weekend with sundowners by the pool to the groove-led tunes and warm disco cuts of resident DJ duo Mediterranéa and Alfre Carta, and match your cocktail to the colour of the sky. Every Thursday and Sunday.Listening Sessions

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